20 years after the tragic death of Gianni Versace, Donatella created an iconic collection in his memory. She carefully curated every piece in the collection down to the finest of details because she knew that critics would focus on the concept of the clothes more than the clothes themselves. But as Donatella stated to the NY Times, she makes clothes not to say, “‘look at me, I am so gorgeous,’ but ‘look at me, I have something to say.’”
After taking over the role of creative director of Versace following her brother’s death, she seemed to have drastically changed the direction of the brand, modernizing many of the trends while still incorporating signature Versace patterns. Amidst rumors of her departure from the brand, she made the ominous decision to create a line that brought back memories of the 90s era, in memory of her brother and to showcase that she has much more coming from her. This collection dove into the blueprints of some of Gianni’s most iconic collections in the 90s: Animalia, Baroque, Vogue, Warhol, as well as many other influences. The bright prints and edgy fabrics of the collection perfectly harmonize with Gianni’s legacy of beauty and simultaneous vulgarity.
Translation of the classic Versace blazer and the transfixion of baroque geometry on thigh-high leather boots, she continues to create a harmony between two opposing concepts that could very easily clash. Bright neon colored suits and leggings, screamed both “powerful business” woman and “sexy army troop” in the same instance. Vogue covers and Warhol’s homage to Marilyn Monroe, splattered on color blocked dresses and formfitting body suits, screamed “look at me!” Donatella merged her brother’s and her own legacies by combining his iconic prints and fabrics with her own silhouettes to create a succinct marriage of the two worlds. The classic Versace silk patterns emerged quite often on the runway, thwarting any doubters who sought to devalue the credibility of her collection.
Donatella closed the show by capturing the essence of the type of women that Gianni designed for: the confident and unapologetic women. The 90s models, donned “Gianni’s girls”, took the stage in couture gowns. Carla Bruni, Helena Christensen, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, and of course, Naomi Campbell herself, were not only considered models or muses for the designer, but close friends of him as well. Campbell told Vogue that, "He was the first to recognize our individuality and to pay us accordingly." He did not just see models as walking hangers for his clothes, but also as inspirations and people that deserve to be treated with respect. This quality, along with his genius in the creative world, is why Gianni Versace continues to be a household name.
Cover Photo: NY Times
Runway Photos: Vogue